PANTONE colors question

[kwl]

/DesktopModules/dotNetBB/emoticons/blink.gif I was wondering what is the differnce between:
PANTONE Solid coated and PANTONE (Solid) To Process coated
I know basically those are spot colors for coated stock print, but what's the difference between those?
What are the advantages or disadvantages of either one ?

Thanks for your time in advance /DesktopModules/dotNetBB/emoticons/cheers.gif

[PrintDriver]

Depends on how you're printing.

But the basic difference is Solid Coated are spot colors. In press the ink is mixed to match that specific color and it is printed with a specific plate. Which is why more spot colors = more plates = more money.

Solid to Process coated show you what your PMS color will look like when printed in 4-color process using 4 plates in CMYK. Not all PMS colors can be achieved in CMYK and some look very different.

In digital large format, as in inkjet prints or continuous tone prints, just stick with PMS solid coated (or Solid Process if told to use it). Don't try to use CMYK solid to process formulas for digital large format.

PD is a grande format digital print dude. His advice/opinions may not apply to the 4color/offset/web world of printing

[kwl]

/DesktopModules/dotNetBB/emoticons/thumbsup.gif Thanks, PrintDriver , you've been very helpful every time I had a question so far.
I am working on a poster project 24'x36' which will be printed 1(max 2) times on a HP DesignJet series printer.
The printer supports both Pantone® color matching for spot or process colors and closed-loop calibration for color consistency.
Maybe the above info is specific enough for you to tell me what would be my best choice for colors (i.e. Solid or Solid to Process).
I also believe that I started to work with Solid spot colors. Should I go back and change all of the colors to Solid to Process colors?
Also, is there something technically wrong with choosing Solid over Solid to Process in my case?
/DesktopModules/dotNetBB/emoticons/frusty.gif Ouch, I am pretty much confused in all of this /DesktopModules/dotNetBB/emoticons/weep.gif

[PrintDriver]

Large format inkjet, stick with PMS coated colors (unless the print vendor tells you otherwise).
On that note, always call your printer BEFORE you design something. Then you won't waste time (and the money you will be earning) making changes to accomodate your printer.

Also, there is a difference in what I said and what you heard.
PMS Process colors are NOT the same as PMS Solid to process colors. Whole different book. The Solid to Process book is only showing you what your PMS Solid color will probably look like when printed on a 4-color press. NOT A DIGITAL INKJET PRINTER. With inkjet there are way too many variables in inks, printers and subtrates to do a single Solid to Process book.

PMS Process colors are numbered colors too, but unlike the Solid colors they have the number format of ###-#. For example color 151-1 will be a reddish purple and 151-2, 151-3, 151-4 etc up to 151-9 will be diminishing shades of 151-1. Some printers use this system as well as the Solids. Some don't.

If you started with PMS Solid, stay with it. For inkjet, use solid coated whether it's on paper or vinyl. Didn't use to matter if you mixed solid and process colors in the same file (we still do that to chart-match some pesky out-of-gamut colors) but some color managed systems may not like it and the printer may charge you to find a replacement match. Best to stay in one system or the other.
If you convert to just CMYK values, while it's not impossible for a printer to look up what you meant, most won't. Tedious.
If color match is important to you, provide chips and ask for a proof.

PD is a grande format digital print dude. His advice/opinions may not apply to the 4color/offset/web world of printing

Post Edited (PD) : 3/4/2005 12:02:21 AM GMT

[PrintDriver]

Oh yeah, one more thing...

On the subject of Pantone, be careful of the issue date of your book. A lot of the formulas were changed in the year 2000 and the books were printed on a brighter white paper. If you are using a pre-2000 book and your printer is up to date, their proof will not match your old chips. Tell your printer if you are using a pre-2000 book. Also tell them which version of the layout program you are using. If you have placed files in the layout program, tell them which version of the program you made the placed file in.

PD is a grande format digital print dude. His advice/opinions may not apply to the 4color/offset/web world of printing

[kwl]

/DesktopModules/dotNetBB/emoticons/worshippy.gif Once again, thanks for such a detailed reply, it was very helpful /DesktopModules/dotNetBB/emoticons/cheers.gif