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  • vehicle wrap design

    Okay i have got design to do for a vehicle wrap for my client, i am doing a design for a 1991 Mitsubishi 4g63 galant for racing. I am just not clear on certain stuff as in how to proceed to design, i use photoshop and illustrator , well more photoshop. I was told i need a ai file of the car to work with but checking out sites and dont see any site that have 1991 vehicles, plus the price right now is a little heavy for me ( any good prices of one let me know or any site that provde them free let me know), so now i have have a "ai" file, so i wondering to take a pic of the car and design on it. K if i do that, i have to measure the car, do i have to measure the entire car panel to panel and if so how do i design on it and to re size it properly so its fit exact for whoever wraping the vehicle. I am bascaily new in car wrap designs and there mesurements and how to revise based of my design.

    So anyone with help i would gladly love to hear and learn thx. my msn is I am using photoshop.

  • #2
    have you asked your vehicle wrap printer if they can supply the car template? I know templates are very expensive.. i wanted a template for a '72 VW campervan but gave up trying to get hold of one. The only other thing i could suggest is to take side, front and back photos of the car, trace them in illustrator and then try and get them to some sort of scale.
    The beginning is always today.


    • #3
      Well nope printers dont have any, and the auto library i found have 1993-2007, i am doing a 1991 mistubishi galant, k i take the pics but when i design should i make bleeds or the vinly will strecth?, dawm guess i have alot of measurement to do.

      ah ur sig is promising .


      • #4
        if in doubt, bleed it out.
        The beginning is always today.


        • #5
          Here is the thing, the templates only go back to 1993, so you won't find one for a 91' vehicle. And, im going to give you a HUGE warning here..... even if you have done vehicle wraps for years, you still run into huge problems, with that said, I would say get this done by a professional who does this sort of stuff for a living. As its great for you to want to do this, as its your first time, you have to realize that you are dealing with thousands of dollars in materials, and if your designs don't work on the car.....guess who's paying for

          Now, if you choose to go ahead with this project I will give you some info. For making the template, you are going to want dead center shots of both sides, the front and the back. You will want to measure all the panels from seam to seam (like your front driver side wheel well panel all the way to the front of the driver side door panel, and so on all the way to the back of the vehicle.) getting measurements on both height and width and pay special attention to the overlapping areas, like going from a front panel on to the hood, those curves will need to be factored into your bleeds in the very end of the design process.

          Once you have the photos, take them into illustrator and retrace the major panels of the vehicle, and anywhere windows, door guards, gas tanks are located, you have to know where all that falls. Once its designed in Illy, you then scale it. Take your total measurement, from front to back of the car, and and either make it 1/10 or 1/12 scale. Working on 1/10 you just have to move your decimal points when setting up your bleeds in photoshop. If your working in 1/12 then you will want to work as foot=inch, which gets a little wierder imo.

          Once you have everything set up in illy, you will bring the illustration into photoshop and set up a new document so that you will have the right dpi, should be anywhere from 1200 - 1500 depending on what scale your working in. Once you have your paths from illy in photoshop, go to canvas size and add on a default of 4" bleeds all the way around.

          Go ahead and design away now, don't do straight horizontal lines (or your installers will kill you) and dont do horizontal gradients either (subtle is fine, but dont make it the dominating part of the design), these are no-no's in vehicle wrap world. When your done designing, you will want to add more bleeds, depending on how much curves you have in crucial areas. If you have window graphics, you will want those seperated onto individual files with there own sets of bleeds. That should be it, thats the very basic part of it, there are alot more things I could tell you, but seriously, its a black art, no one just jumps in and nails it first time, its a learning experience.

          So with that said, take heed my warning, and good luck.
          ‘Our great industrial nation is controlled by its system of credit. Our system of credit is privately controlled. We have come to be one of the worst ruled, one of the most completely controlled and dominated governments in the civilized world. No government by free opinion, no longer a government by conviction and the vote of the majority, but a government by the opinion and duress of small groups of men.’ - Woodrow Wilson


          • #6
            D-Frag had it right.

            There's a few other things as well. Don't have text in obvious curving spots. When the installer stretches the material around the curves it will warp the writting. Experts can get away with it only because they have been doing it forever. Sponsor decals can go over the wrap if needed (and in many times are printed seperate anyway or handed out by the sponsors themselves).

            Making the measurements right for creating your own tamplate is key. You can take a picture of the car - but don't expect it to be an absolute guide. Always refer to your final measurements for output.

            4" bleed may seem excessive, except when you are dealing with sheets of vinyl that are very large and very stretchy. The bleeds will allow the installer overcome any measurement errors that you may have had in your template (lest you created your template on a very wrong scale). If your template is off it is magnified by 10 to 12 times by the time it gets printed (btw- talk to the printer, we try to work 1/4 scale on most things)



            • #7
              Just curious, most of my printers want full scale if it fits on the artboard.
              Why do you need to work in 1/4?
              (I hate math, maybe my particular vendors do too)


              • #8
                The stuff we do is panel vans or long trailers. Most of the time we work in 1/4 or 1/2 scale as the file sizes are big. The cars, trucks and whatnot are usually in full scale.

                I should have said "we try to work no less than 1/4 scale" and that would be for the full trailers.

                It just the way it's been done here. Now that we are getting a few upgrades, the comps will be able to handle more of the larger print sizes.

                *shrug* Really it comes down to the printers specs.


                • #9
                  I'd forgotten about wrapping buses and trailers. Sorry.

                  1/4 scale or full scale, you are still working with the same file sizes.



                  • #10
                    PD you'd probably cringe at some of the stuff outputted from our 54" printer.

                    That said, most the people we deal with are ok at 150dpi +/- on the sides of their stuff. 6ft or so away it looks ok. I'm not the person who really deals with the setup of the files or the wrapping. I have done a couple and have been told off that my files sizes are "too big", eh.

                    Ideally - there should be a high quality output. I just don't know if anyone here has thought to question the process as it has always been done.


                    • #11
                      I've seen really good vehicle wraps and I've seen really poor ones. I make it a habit to ask on both who did the work.

                      150 actual should be pretty damn good. 150 interpolated...GIGO applies.
                      I'm one of those clients who would expect the best. PITA sometimes.


                      • #12
                        thx guys.

                        1. so 150 dpi i should do the design as right?

                        2. So i have to trace over certain section of the car, mm k do u know any car tracing techinques, plugins or turorials in doing proper tracing of a car, or i have to learn on my own old fashion way using illy?.

                        3. the part to resize and scale just wana clear some stuff up, when i trace over in illy i resize the car to the measurement i i got (length and height of the car) , but when u said scale 1/10 and 1/20 how exactly u do that in illy not understanding that part.

                        4. and always make 4inches bleeds right?

                        5. oh one more thing lol they are not puting in wraps on the side window so should i make the design pass the window then the installers just cut it out right?
                        thx alot again guys


                        • #13
                          Do you know how to use Illustrator?
                          Do you know how to work in scale? (it involves math. You can't just set Illy to do it like Autocad or Vectorworks.) I like 1:10 because you can just move the decimal.

                          You trace your car in Illustrator. Don't use live trace. You will spend more time on clean up. Do it clean with the pen tool and watch your measurement palette carefully. Not enough designers use actual measurements. WHen working in scale, your mistakes are magnified by the multiplier of the scale. If working in 1" = 1', if you are off by 1/16" in your drawing, you are off a whopping 3/4" at final scale. Bad bad Bad.

                          D-Frag is serious. If you are unskilled at this it will cost you a lot of money if it is wrong. Large format printing is not for the faint-hearted. When you screw up, it is a BIG screw up.
                          Last edited by PrintDriver; 05-10-2007, 07:15 AM.


                          • #14
                            no - actually call the printer who is going to do this. These are just guides that other experienced.

                            What you need are printer specs from the actual printer.

                            Use the math - 150dpi at 1/10 scale will be 15dpi at full scale which would make nearly anything at that range look bad.

                            Idealy if this is going to be seen close up - you wan to target 300dpi, but if your computer can't handle the size then scale it down to 1/2 size at 500-600 dpi or as high as your computer can handle. You don't want to go below 150dpi for a car as any raster image will be pixelated and look fuzzy.

                            I don't think we ever worked in anything 1/10 scale - that would be a crazy conversion to figure out.

                            4inch bleed really depends on the area to cover and the installer. See what the printer recomends.

                            Unfortunately making a template is litterally hand drawing it out with proper measurements. There's no quick shortcuts. BUT you may want to ask your printer for a 1993 galant and then just use Illy to adjust the vector lines to your measuremnts. That at least will give you a guide to work from.

                            yes make the designs past the windows harware etc.


                            • #15
                              1:10 is not crazy. If you want to scale something that is 144" it's 14.4"
                              123.5" = 12.35". You cannot get any easier than that. Output is 1000%.

                              I don't know, Draz. I've NEVER done anything on an inkjet over 200dpi final res size. You really have to ask the printer but 200-150 final is pretty darned standard. But the printhead resolution (different from image res) should be at least 360dpi. Almost all of my vendors have changed over the the newer 720 heads. Suweet!






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