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  • Illy question: logo structure

    #1
    I was wondering about a thing when making logos (for example) in Illustrator containing different colors. What is the best method of these examples when thinking of correct reproduction across medias and methods of print etc.?:


    1. The colored parts are created using Illustrator's Live Paint tool, causing the paths to align exactly with the black lines.

    2. The colored paths got their paths offset 1 mm, causing a "margin" behind the black lines.

    3. The black outlines are no longer outlines, but filled with black and sent to the back. The colored paths are on top of the black part.

    I would guess the last one is the best, but when that method is not an option, would the second method be better than the first? I don't know if my question is understandable, but I have a thought that says that the first approach could cause more trouble for example being cut out in vinyl than the second approach, causing the colored path to go slightly out of alignment with the black outline.
    Last edited by fredrich; 10-15-2007, 11:46 AM.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    I think it is just personal taste. I chop all my logos out so they look like #3. There is less of a chance for people to manipulate it after I send it out. I would knock out the logo like you have it, and then merge the same colors to the same layer and then place an .144" overprint stroke around the solid color shapes. Never had an issue with them to date...

    Comment

    • #3
      Originally posted by CkretAjint
      I would knock out the logo like you have it, and then merge the same colors to the same layer and then place an .144" overprint stroke around the solid color shapes.
      Could you explain a little more detailed concerning how and why you do this?

      Comment

      • #4
        No 3 is the way to go. Why would you send out the others when the other stuff is just clutter and not needed? And you're just asking for issues with other possibly "buggy" software or files. You could get some scaling issues, compound path issues etc. Also the simpler it is the easier it is to change for the end user. So say for example you send them that logo and they need to make it white. Well if they're savvy and willing they can do that very easily. This means they don't have to bug you to send a white logo.

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by fredrich
          Could you explain a little more detailed concerning how and why you do this?
          Do exactly what you did to get number 3 (outline the stroke). Then select all your black shapes and use the Pathfinder palette and merge them to 1 shape. Same with Red, Green and Blue (and other colors you might use). Then select the black and use the same color and add a .144pt stroke on it, and check off the over print box in attributes. Then select the red and use the same color and add a .144" stroke on it, and check off the over print box in attributes. and so on and so on.

          Make sense?
          Last edited by CkretAjint; 10-15-2007, 01:53 PM.

          Comment

          • #6
            #3. Keep it together. Layers don't matter so much.
            Let the printer apply any trapping to it unless they tell you to.

            As a sign maker:
            #3 with all the elements in place is the way to go. We'd be able to do whatever we needed to from there.

            #2 Sending shapes with fills that cover half your outer stroke is messy. Usable, but messy. Nasty in print so I hear too.

            #1 is just lazy. Usable but lazy.

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            • #7
              Here is a portion of a logo here at work (I deleted the name for legal purposes, as it is not yet released for public use)...



              CMYK colors, no swatches, over print stroke printed, layers combined for least amount possible....

              Comment

              • #8
                You better have PMS equivalents for those CMYK colors or do NOT send it to a signmaker. Signs, as well as wide format printing, require some kind of color matching system. CMYK colors CANNOT be matched in vinyl, paint, or wide format ink systems on any of the various media that can be printed on.

                It is becoming an increasingly and alarmingly popular misconception that you only need CMYK values in your colors. That would be very very wrong.

                Comment

                • #9
                  No worries. This is for a new 'outdoor-sy' section of our company. So we are having a sign make carve these INTO wood for us. SUPER expensive, but exactly what we want and need for it. So we have no need for a PANTONE version of this logo. I fought and argued and fought some more for PMS colors and 'they' (aka the boss) said no need for it. So I just rolled with it. We shall see down the road.

                  But PD is correct, ALL of out other logos at work are done in PANTONE colors. So I 100% agree with him. It just so happens that this is the ONE logo we use that is the exception to 'the rule' (evne though I don't agree with it).

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Carved into wood? Or cut out of wood in plies? (which is what your file suggests)
                    Are you staining different colors?
                    If carving from 1 piece, no wonder it's expensive...

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Like so...



                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Originally posted by CkretAjint
                        Here is a portion of a logo here at work (I deleted the name for legal purposes, as it is not yet released for public use)...



                        CMYK colors, no swatches, over print stroke printed, layers combined for least amount possible....
                        I thought Heinz was in Pennsilvania?

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          nice try... Not even close. I deleted about half of the logo before posting it.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Isn't a GrainFrame a lovely thing?
                            We've been trying to teach our CNC router to do wood grain without having to resort to sandblasting. I'm pretty sure we just need to up the contrast on the B&W tif we've been feeding it.
                            Hand carvers hate hearing that. LOL.

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              eh... I don't know the technical terms. They just tell me what to do and I do the production work for it.

                              Comment

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