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Printing to Samsung - Solid Black not Solid

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  • Printing to Samsung - Solid Black not Solid

    Designed a logo for a guitar headstock to print onto waterslide decal paper.

    First mistake was that I designed it in illustrator with 100% K for black, imported to Photoshop, did the rest of the edits and such and realized I used 100%K not rich black.

    Found a forum post where someone said easiest work around was to click Selective Colour and add +4 to everything. Print came out darker so was happy about that.

    Problem I am still having is that the logo is solid black/white. Only a few spots have a gradual fade from black to clear. But outline and drop shadow is solid black, and it's printing as small dots.

    I have a Samsung CLP-325 colour laser printer. If I print a test page for example from the printer, solid black items like type are a solid black.

    Any ideas how I can get this to print solid black as solid? Not a halftone effect?

  • #2
    You already know where your mistake is.
    As far as the gradient and the small dots, is your samsung auto halftoning the raster image and printing as dots in order to print them with the laser toner? What is the resolution of the photoshop file?

    Why didn't you keep the logo in Illustrator as vector art? That would have been the more proper way to print it. Then you could utilize the full 2400dpi of that particular print unit and get clean sharp vector solids.
    ''Photoshop is easier'' isn't the answer. At least in Illustrator, not only can you change the K elements to rich black, you can tell the printer in the print dialog box to print all blacks as rich black. Also, when bringing vector art into Photoshop, bringing it in as a smart object is always wise.

    Last edited by PrintDriver; 01-07-2018, 07:15 AM.


    • #3
      Well, tried to fix the 100K mistake last night, I converted the image to black/white then clicked the duotone option, monotone, and spot colour was 75/68/67/90.

      Image is just black, no colour at all.

      Did the type in illustrator, brought into photoshop 1200dpi for edits. I wanted a gradient between letters, and when I did the drop shadow it was a copied layer, solid black and shifted, but I didn't want the small gaps showing all around the insides. Figured quicker/easier to import into photoshop and do it that way.

      Haven't done this stuff in years... first time I've ever done it this way. It's not for a client or anything so wasn't worried about being a vector for future use.

      That said, we've established the problem... what's the fix?


      • #4
        Tried a few things...

        If I take the duotone copy, and the copy that had the 'selective colour +4' and place them into InDesign... the duotone is grey/black, and the selective colour one is a nice rich black and solid where it should be solid. Duotone one is still dots.

        So... screw it... went back to illustrator. Type converted to outlines because one of those free fonts that need some adjusting. No shading between letters, just CMYK, solid black outline and a solid black drop shadow. CMYK Black (69.53/67.19/63.67/73.83) default CMYK black. Printed and kinda in between the two from InDesign... darker than the grey one, not as black as the other... dots, not as bad, closer together, but still not a solid black.


        • #5
          69.53c 67.19m 63.67y 73.83k isn't black; it's a very dark gray.

          If you want black, make sure the Illustrator document is in CMYK mode and type 100% K into the color picker box, along with a bit of cyan to really darken it up -- maybe even up to a combination of 60c, 40m, 40y, 100k.

          If you want to make sure none of the other colors leak out along the edges (and maybe this doesn't matter depending on your design), stroke the objects with a thin line of 100k and make sure the stroke overprint attribute isn't checked.


          • #6
            Well, I'll tell you what I've done so far...

            As per PrintDriver I should have done this all in illustrator so I scrapped what I did, and went back to illustrator and did it all over again. Also in Post#2 was mentioned converting to rich black, which I thought was what the CMYK black was (when clicked it set to 69.53c 67.19m 63.67y 73.83k).

            Print is darker, but still can see the dots.

            I have a 2nd logo that was done in illustrator, and was 100k but I switched to 69.53c 67.19m 63.67y 73.83k. This logo was a recreating from an old photo for a guitar from the '60s. Logo was a decal that fell off most of these guitars years ago so, was a bit tricky to find a photo of. In any case... same as the other logo, solid black and white. However, when I print this logo... the black is solid. No dots. As far as I can tell, same settings, same black, no type (all outlined). Combination of stroked lines and solid fills, and again both the lines and fills are that 69.53c 67.19m 63.67y 73.83k.

            So... for some reason... Logo 1, dots... Logo 2, solid. Both black and white, both 69.53c 67.19m 63.67y 73.83k for black.


            • B
              B commented
              Editing a comment
              The only way to ensure no halftone dots with the black is to use a 100% black.

              A 74% black will have dots. On a good offset press, the formula you mentioned will create a reasonably solid black, but if you want a super dark black -- especially on a desktop laser printer -- you really do need to make sure the black isn't screened back to something less than a solid black. And the only way to ensure that is to put down a solid 100% black on top of the other three process colors that are screened back a bit to lighter underprinting colors.

              There's really is no surefire way to get this perfect on a relatively inexpensive desktop laser printer, and even getting it most of the way there will require trial and error, like you're doing.

          • #7
            Well... not sure what did it but... created a new doc, copy pasted the art into it. Selected everything with a fill, did the fill at 75/68/67/90, then selected outlines, changed to 75/68/67/90. Black is solid... maybe still dots but so packed together that I can't really see them with my magnifying glass/lamp.

            100% K was kinda grey-ish when printed, and I needed the layering of toner to physically make the black thicker.

            It's being printed on waterslide decal paper as a mirror image, then I have to paint over it with gold. Thicker/darker the black is, the less you'll see the gold behind it type deal.

            Was a lot of trial and error... for a 1 time use image... but I do plan to do more guitar logos in the future so, at least next time I should be set.







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