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  • Adhesive for 300gsm coated stock

    Hi Everyone,

    Im new to the forums and have googled endlessly for a solution with no luck!

    I design invitations and do all the print finishing. This particular job im doing at the moment requires glueing which isnt common for me. The card stock is 300gsm coated both sides. Ive tried those permanent roller/tape type adhesives and quickly discovered they were no good on coated stock as the 2 pieces can be removed and repositioned. I need something permanent that when pieces are pulled apart the card will tear,ie. permanent. All glues ive tried either seperate too easily or they are permanent but seep through the card and start to show through!

    Anyones tips would be much appreciated!!

  • #2
    3M Spray 77. Do both sides and it works like contact adhesive.
    You may have to make a mask and jig so you don't get it where you don't want it.

    Or use print mounting adhesive.

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    • #3
      thanks print driver. The areas where adhesive is required are quite small so i understand what you mean by masking it and im sure its quite straight forward but what is a jig?

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      • #4
        A jig in this case is a hinge. Cut a piece of heavy cardstock with a hole in it to match your glue area. Hinge it to a waste sheet (so you don't spray your table.) Lift, put piece under hole, spray, lift, remove, repeat.

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        • #5
          ah thanks for the description, great help!

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          • #6
            Been doing a bit of research on the spray adhesive and im a bit of a freak about chemicals (ie breathing them in, even through a mask). Also looking at the print mounting adhesive, am i right this comes in sheets and needs a heat press or roller system to apply the pressure to make the adhesive permanent? Might be a bit of a large set up for me for the odd occasion.
            Does anyone know of anything that maybe comes in a bottle/applied with a brush method? I think the standard PVA will show through/not create a permanent bond.

            Comment


            • #7
              You can get print mounting adhesive called Cold Press adhesive. You can apply it by hand or with a roller.

              Comment


              • #8
                the pieces, for example, would be a band that wraps around the invitation and only 1cm on each end needs adhesive to join it, followed by a monogram glued on top of the join. This needs to be repeated 150 times. Would this adhesive sheeting suit? Im just imagining it being quite fiddly in this form.

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                • #9
                  Too much $$$
                  How bout carpet tape. It's double sided and you can get it at any hardware store.
                  I'd apply it to one edge of the paper then cut the strips.

                  I tend to think sledgehammer when someone says hammer.

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                  • #10
                    This may sound simple, but It has worked well for me in the past. I have done a lot of invitation design and used coated stock. I use a good glue stick and a brayer (Roller used for printing). Anyway the pressure from rolling the brayer over the area that you glue, seems to flatten everything and really give a good adhesive contact. The kind where you rip the paper if you try and remove it. Just a thought, I know that doing the spray adhesive for a small area can get a bit tricky.
                    Everywhere at everytime in the world, the artist has had to be a strong person in order to retain his own individuality.
                    -Sergei Shutov, painter

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                    • #11
                      haha thanks printdriver..will look into it..

                      Derfie, im a bit the same as print driver, which is why i overlooked the regular glue stick at first. I was searching high and low for a more 'proper' solution until someone mentioned i try it. So i had an OLD UHU stick, i swear ive had it for 5+ years and it worked like a charm. So i went and bought a couple more, assumed it was working, until i finished the whole job and realised with a slight lift of the finger the 2 pieces were just snapping clean apart. Some how the old fermented diseased glue stick did the trick. It was a bit gluggier and discoulered and somehow that made it work..... ??? I was applying plenty of pressure and have skin missing on my hands to prove it....thanks for the brayer tip!

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                      • #12
                        I noticed that not all glue sticks are the same. I have had ones that totally suck. The UHU ones are usually good. I like the purple ones that dry clear. Anyway, glad to hear that you found a simple tried and true solution.
                        Everywhere at everytime in the world, the artist has had to be a strong person in order to retain his own individuality.
                        -Sergei Shutov, painter

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          well sort of a solution, im out of diseased and fermented glue stick. Know where i can get some more?

                          Comment

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