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Lens Buyers Guide

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  • Lens Buyers Guide

    Buying a lense could be quite confusing if you are not educated about what you are buying, let alone the dissapointment of buying a lens that does not meet your expectations. Below are some links to some very informative material to help you to make decisions on what you needs are when buying a lens.

    Courtesy of Digital Camera Resource Page

    Lens Buyers Guide
    Last edited by Tyger; 11-22-2005, 01:15 PM.

  • #2
    Seven Considerations When Buying Glass

    Found this on another forum, good info and very informative.

    Seven considerations when buying glass

    Courtesy of Peter Doomen


    • #3
      I posted a blog entry that hopefully clarifies what manufacturers and resellers refer to as focal length multiplier.


      • #4
        Nice Links! Thanx for sharing!
        Patiala Punjabi Forum


        • #5
          Originally posted by steve-o View Post
          I posted a blog entry that hopefully clarifies what manufacturers and resellers refer to as focal length multiplier.

          Great interview, Steve-o!

          I use the term Crop Factor, which I think has gotten a bit more of a footing these days than Focal Length Multiplier - probably because it's a lot easier to say.

          A bit more clarification on terms for people reading...

          In that interview you compare a digital camera with a 22.7 x 15.1 mm sensor, mounted with a 50mm lens. Linke said that would be the equivalent Field of View of an 80mm lens. What that means is that sensor size gives a 1.6x crop factor, or Focal Length Multiplier.

          Here's a good link that shows the Crop Factor of various Sensor Sizes.

          "Full Frame" means a sensor the same size as 35mm film, which has no crop factor (or you could say a crop factor of 1.0). 1.6x crop factor is common for entry-level dSLRs, while full-frame is common for professional dSLRs.

          Of course, those figures only apply the the two-thirds lens mount, which is what 35mm SLR cameras and the majority of Digital SLRs still use. Cameras with the new four-thirds mounting system use a smaller sensor with more glass, giving a higher focal length multiplier without any loss. For instance, all the Olympus SLRs from entry level to professional, have a much smaller sensor size of 17.3 x 13.0mm giving a 2x crop factor, but with a four-thirds mount lens they retain superior quality from the glass. "Full Frame" is an irrelevant term in that world.
          Last edited by Ned; 11-28-2008, 01:33 PM.
          Ned Yeung, A.C.E.


          • #6
            I want a fisheye.. but not a pro one.

            I really want to get a fisheye lens.. but want to get the fisheye converter, as it will be for crazy party shots that will usually have a lot of lights and effects going on.. I dont mind a little vignetting or blurring toward the edges.

            BUT my usual lens has a 67mm thread which is unheard of.. and I cant find a converter that fits.

            So I saw this:

            It's still a lot.. but is half the price of a Nikon fisheye, and I'm sure the quality will be better than a converter. If I'd need to buy a whole new lens to fit a converter, I might as well buy this, right?

            I cant find any sample pictures, though...

            Anyone? Ideas? Advice? Suggestions? Links?


            • #7
              Have you tried contacting the seller to see if they could provide sample pictures? Even though this lens is new, they may be able to direct you to something.
              "It's never too late to be who you might have been." - George Eliot


              • #8
                Some good info here. I'd like to share some of my thoughts.

                One, buy the best glass you can afford. Unlike a digital camera body, which gets obsoleted way too quickly, a lens is seldom obsolete. Its not uncommon to use a lens for 10 years or more, it is uncommon to use a dSLR body for much more than 2 or 3.

                High quality lenses hold their value, making them a good investment, compared to camera bodies. I shoot Canon, and I try, whenever possible, to buy L-series lenses (my current exception is the 10-22 EF-S lens). One lens I still regret ever selling was my 300/2.8 L, which I sold about two years after purchase for more than 85% of my purchase price. Consumer grade lenses, by contrast, tend to lose value much faster than the professional grade lenses.

                Three, "fast" lenses will auto-focus more accurately. Since the lens is always wide-open when the camera auto-focuses the shallower depth of field makes focus lock more accurate. A fast lens also makes manual focus easier for the very same reason.

                Image stabilization is something that seems to confuse a lot of people as to when it actually helps. If you are shooting your sofa in your dimly lit living room it will help counteract any camera jitter. If you are shooting your kids running around the sofa in our dimly lit living room its of no help whatsoever. Image stabilization helps with camera movement only, not with subject movement.

                And lastly, the image starts with the lens. Garbage in, garbage out, its really that simple.
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